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Capri: Day Two

April 5, 2009

So I forgot to mention last night the little debacle I had. There’s tons of outlets in our hotel room, unlike our last lodging, which only had one outlet for practically the entire apartment. Here, I decided to plug my computer into the outlet in my nightstand. Nothing happened, so I decided to check it out. One of the wires wasn’t connected in the back from the wall to the nightstand outlet. I decided it would be a good idea to plug it back in and the moment the wire hit the hole the entire room went black. There was no spark or any warning, and as it turns out I knocked out the power for the entire floor! The professor who gave us a lecture earlier in the day complained, and the problem was fixed quickly, but I thought it made for a funny story.

Anyway, today’s adventures need discussing. I got up bright and early (7) to catch a shower and then go enjoy our free breakfast. Filling, but basic. Then at nine we went on a walk to Villa Jovis, our site for this competition/design. It was a forty minute or so walk, nearly entirely uphill. The city of Capri (near where we are staying) is about 145 meters above sea level. Consider that Capri is only 17 kilometers around, and that seems pretty steep. Our site is 334 meters above sea level, so you can imagine the hike we made today.

On our way up was saw a few cats, a stray dog, and a crazy old man who was laughing at the electric car trying to pick him up. The nice thing about Capri is that the streets/paths are so narrow that no cars are allowed on 90% of them. The substitute transportation is walking, or little electric powered freight cars. A few wild goats met us at the entrance to Villa Jovis, which sits on the second highest hill in Capri.

Overlooking the water on the edge of a cliff, it was hard to imagine what this Villa once looked like. The site dates back to near 30 B.C., when Tiberius was emperor at the time of the death of Christ. Tiberius, looking for a retreat from the drama in Rome (his son and wife had died, and he was forced to kill his traitorous best friend and general), went to Capri, which was used as a getaway for the previous emperor, Augustus.

History lesson aside, the villa now lays in ruins. Unlike many of the other sites I’ve seen in Rome, this villa lay in even worse shape, despite the spectacular site. It has the potential to be spectacular, but trees and bushes have overtaken the site. Old metal stairs are closed inaccessible, and the place has really fallen into disrepair.
The weather today was misty, which formed a cool effect off the edge of the cliffs as we left the villa and headed down to the grocery store for lunch. A quick sandwich would hopefully hold me over until dinner before Susie and I walked around the town a little more. We ran across a monastery near town before heading to our lecture about similar projects to ours.

The lectures were interesting, and I didn’t mind them as much today because it was misty outside. I took a brief nap during one, and woke up with a few ideas about the site. We proposed our ideas to our Italian group mates, who had already gotten a head start because of deadlines imposed by their professor. They seemed to consider what we had to say, but I’m not sure if they took any of it to heart.

We took a quick break before having a lecture by Alan Ceen, the cartography professor, who agreed to visit us on Capri and conduct some walks around the island. He laid out some interesting places I’ll have to visit while we’re here. Then, it was back to the apartment, where my English-speaking group mates and I came up with an idea of our own to propose to the professors and our other Italian groupies tomorrow. Hopefully they bite on some of the things we say, like an interesting idea I had to experience the inside o the cisterns of the villa (apparently water is hard to come by here in Capri, so Tiberius built huge cisterns in the center of his villa to collect water. The result is a villa where all rooms do not face a center court, but rather face outward to the sea).

Another hotel dinner followed, my last until Saturday evening. Pasta, a Weiner schnitzel with fries, and fruit plates awaited me. It was very filling, and I spent my time until just now watching a James Bond movie dubbed in Italian. I’m not sure which one it is, but it has Sean Connery in it and it’s partially set in Turkey. Now, once again, I’m sleepy. Ciao!

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Capri: Day One

April 5, 2009

6:12 a.m.
Its dang early. I’m waiting for my potatoes to microwave for breakfast since it’s the only thing I own grocery-wise that’s not packed up for Capri. People, I can hear, are just starting to get up. I got up 45 minutes ago to avoid any sort of bathroom rush. But, ah, my potatoes are done!

Sidenote: I enjoy having the room to myself; I can play my music and turn the light on in the mornings without fear of waking Adam up.

7:52 a.m.
Still dang early, except this time I’m on a bus to Naples and Capri! After catching up a little with Joe and Caryn about their trip to Greece (where it was confirmed that Athens was a craphole and the beaches/hot springs/San Torini was where it was at) I’m back to blogging. I have to catch up on my now non-chronological journaling of Barcelona.

11:01 p.m.

We arrived in Naples around half-past ten on the bus. Our supposed hovercraft didn’t leave for another hour, so we hung out down on the wharf area for a while. I can see why my family chose to move away from Naples. Beautiful natural monuments like Vesuvius and the Bay of Naples surround it, but the city itself is very industrial. When we leave next Sunday for Rome, I might stop in Naples for another few hours, just to see what it’s like.

After grabbing a calzone for later and eating some leftover pasta in a Tupperware, we all boarded the supposed hovercraft for Capri. In reality, it was a high-speed ferry that zipped us to Capri in about forty minutes. I was asleep for a good portion, and Susie woke me up to say we could go outside the cabin to check out the panoramic island and ocean views. I left the pile of luggage that had accrued next to me behind, and went outside to get some fresh air. I instantly felt better, and the Bay of Naples is beautiful. The weather today was perfect, hardly a cloud in the sky, though I don’t want to jinx the rest of our trip!

We arrived on the island and took a mini-bus up the side of one of the cliffs. Usually, a funicular would do the job, but it’s just barely the off-season still so a good portion of things are closed. The bus dropped us off and we walked another few blocks to our four star hotel. I don’t believe I’ve ever stayed in a place with this many stars. Girls got checked-in first, and when it was our turn I was just hoping for a room with a view. We got the best view out of any room, being high enough and far enough over to see past a building that blocked most of the other room’s views. The room itself is very nice, and this time we all have our own beds. It’s Phil and I again, this time with Hoffman as the third roommate. So far the only drawback to the hotel is the Internet is costly, which means this blog will be posted en-masse with the rest of the entries I’ve made.

After we checked in, we had some time to go exploring. Susie, Laura, and I went walking down one path that presented us with gorgeous panoramic views of this side of the island. We walked off the beaten path at one point, following an old woman down to the rocky coastline. Keep in mind that the path was hundreds of feet above the water, nearly straight down at one point. As it turns out, the old woman was going to visit a scraggly and nearly naked old man who had built a hut on the beach. Another man had built an even larger hut further down the coast. It made me think that one day I could live here too, all I needed was the admission cost of a one-way ferry ride.

There are two towns on Capri, Anacapri and Capri. We are staying in the later, which is supposedly more tourist oriented. As such, many things are closed down, and I’m glad I brought some snacks for the daytime hours. Breakfast is offered everyday at eight, and dinner is offered for a fifteen-euro fee twelve hours later. That might seem like a rip-off, but given the fact that nothing is open, it’s practically our only choice. A food monopoly!

After our walk we had a few lectures about the work that we’d be doing at the Villa Jovis at the very tip of Capri. Apparently the local paper might even cover the review we’ll have for the workshop on Saturday. Romolo also mentioned that there would be teams of about seven students. Some teams would be all Americans, some all Italian Graduate Students, and some a mix. As it turns out, only one team was a mix. I decided to be on that team for the unique experience, and what I saw as the whole point of the workshop. Our new Italian friends are very nice, and I’m thankful they know enough English to make our exchanges simpler. We walked around a little more during a break between lectures, which highlighted accessibility for all, and unique solutions to that problem.

By the time we got back, it was dinnertime, and seven of us (along with the faculty) ate a meal that consisted of pasta, bread, salad, bread, and swordfish. It was filling and gets my stamp of approval for the other nights we’re in Capri. Right now I’m wiped, so I should head to bed before our long walk to Villa Jovis in the morning. Buona Sera!

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Restrospective 3/4: Barcelona

March 20, 2009

Currently I am sitting in my hotel room in Capri, trying to recollect the details of this trip via the many notes I made in my sketchbook. I recall the previous night I had made a preliminary plan of things I wanted to see during our stay in Barcelona. It included a good chunk of events, and I was certain we could get them all in on time. This (Wednesday) was our first full day in the city, and we decided to start it with a trip to Parc Guell.

Parc Guell is a park designed by the famous Spanish architect, Gaudi. During the turn of the 20th century, Gaudi was becoming a household name in Barcelona because he distinctly represented the national pride of the Catalan region and style. Like many architects of the past, Gaudi had a patron who sponsored most of his projects. With this patron (Guell, whom the park is named after), Gaudi transformed the face of Barcelona and brought it into the new century. It was difficult to truly appreciate Gaudi for his genius until I saw his masterpiece, and still unfinished work, the Sagrada Familia (Church of the Holy Family) later in the week.

Anyway, history lesson aside, Susie and I decided to take the half hour stroll uphill to Parc Guell. The previous night I bought some Fanta and put it in a water bottle for this trip. I miscalculated that the Fanta would get shaken up in the water bottle, so when I was craving the delicious orange goodness, I got a little surprise. The pressure had built up in bottle and when I used my teeth to pop the cap a burst of gas and soda popped me right in the back of the throat! I probably gave one of the most shocked faces ever (except for later to the woman in the airport).

Parc Guell, despite me being soaked in soda, was gorgeous. It was what I expected from Gaudi, and a very good introduction to his work. Two homes, spiraling and twisting, created an entrance along a wall with mosaic tiles that spelled out ‘Parc Guell.’ Inside, a staircase shifted on and off axis with a fountain in the center and a mosaic tile Iguana adorning the top of the promenade.

When you reach the top of the steps, a covered area guides people to another set of stairs, though a series of columns that are tilted off 90 degrees. Atop this set of stair is a large open space, which is actually the roof of the covered area below. Two cave-like structures peel off the edges of this open space, which overlooks the city of Barcelona and the entrance sequence you just experienced below. The cave structures are akin to the ‘dripping sandcastle’ effect that is so famous on Sagrada Familia. They take you around the park and would lead up the mountain, if that portion had not been closed for restoration. Instead, we took in the sights of exotic birds, performers, and palm trees that led up the Casa Gaudi (the house he lived in for several years), though the museum was too expensive for us to go inside. A little farther and we were out of the park and greeted by what seemed like an endless staircase upwards.

This staircase was not part of Parc Guell, but I decided that up might provide us with some spectacular view of the city, and dragged Susie up. It was certainly worth it, and we got a 360-degree view of the city and the surrounding mountains. Only a few exercise nuts and old people were there with us, unlike the tourist and school children filled park below. It was very relaxing, and we stayed up here for a few minutes before heading back down the opposing side of the mountain.

This was like the Boy Scouts all over again. We followed little trails down into an area that we had no idea about and eventually hit a road that led to a metro. It took a little while, but to experience that much nature in a city so large was unexpected and fun. The metro took us to our next stop, Casa Mila, another Gaudi creation.

Casa Mila, also called La Padreda (I think), is a housing project by Gaudi. Perhaps you are familiar with a building that has undulating curved balconies and what looks like ceramic tile onions on the roof? This is Casa Mila, located just a stroll up from Las Ramblas in the center of town. Further down you’ll find Casa Battlo, a Gaudi home renovation project. While we were going to visit Battlo as well, it was much too expensive (thirteen euro, more than the cost to see Sagrada Familia) in comparison to Mila (5.5 euro).

Only parts of Mila were accessible since it is still a functioning apartment. The four portions we got to see were: the entry, an example apartment, the attic, and the roof. The example apartment was interesting, though by far my least favorite of these parts. It reminded me of the Victor Horta house we saw in Brussels. The attention to detail and the unique style of the architect was everywhere you turned in both instances. The apartment was full of pieces that were from the time this apartment was built, around 1900. Perhaps the most interesting part of the apartment was that it is a ‘free-plan.’ This is not such a revolutionary concept today, but in Gaudi’s time, the free-plan meant that there was no load bearing walls in the structure. This means that the only elements that dictated space were the exterior walls and the columns that held the bulding up. Inside walls could be moved around to allow for unlimited apartments configurations at the clients disgression.

The free-plan is more evident in the attic, where Gaudi took inspiration from the skeletons of boa constrictors to form a winding, ribbed space that was meant to act as a buffer between the apartments and the elements on the roof. 273 arches hung down a central spine the weaved in and out of courtyards and around the entire building. There was a model on display that showed how Gaudi used bags of sand tied on string and hung off a central wire to determine the perfect parabolic shape for the roof arches. It was quite an interesting concept, and one that he would use in several of his other projects.

The final stop on the trip was the roof terraces, though the guides kept trying to get us to go back to the apartment (where the gift shop was located). The roof is the famous part of the building with the onion-like ceramic structures that actually housed the stair towers for the building, six in all. Thirty swooped chimneys also stretched out of the roof, meant to mimic the motion of smoke. Gaudi was all about the blurring of the distinction between form and function, and the terraces on the roof showed that. As an added detail, any element on the roof visible from the street was covered in a ceramic tile pattern in truly Gaudi fashion.

We left the Casa mila after perusing through an art exhibit downstairs and glancing up through the three or so courtyards that allowed light into every room of every apartment. A quick stroll down into the center of town brought us to a restaurant called La Vaca Paca, the Cow Field. The entire time we were at Casa mila, a delicious smell had been wafting up to us. We weren’t certain this was it, but we were certain that the sign said ‘All you can eat buffet!’ That’s all the convincing I needed and we had a very delicious and very filling lunch before setting out again.

Unfortunately, in the afternoon it started to become overcast and rain a little. Since Susie and I didn’t have anything planned, we decided to spend the rest of the day looking through stores down at Las Ramblas. She was looking for boots, and I was looking for a new coat. My old coat, which my parents bought me in high school, had finally begun to come apart. Its been looking like it had caught leprosy, and the outer material was falling off in chunks. After we walked in a few stores I finally broke down and bought one, a very dark blue trendy thing that I am pleased to say fits very well and I enjoy greatly.

During our shopping expedition we ended up at La Boqueria, the main market of Barcelona. An outdoor market is something we rarely have in the states, the best thing I can think of is if you took a farmers stand and gave it steroids to turn it into a supermarket. La Boqueria, along with the other markets we saw, were very large, probably taking up most of a city block if you included that shops and plazas around them. Piles of fresh fruit, meat, fish, and other treats become a sensory overload until you have to break down and buy something. The freshness can’t be beat, and we saw some truly amazing and delicious things including the biggest and most red strawberries in existence. On this day we bought fruit juices, two for a dollar. I got my favorite mango, and Susie got a coconut juice.

I’m currently drawing a blank on the rest of the afternoon, so I will return after all my pictures have uploaded to give up an update!

Ah yes, I remember now! We ventured down to a park that our receptionist said was not very tourist oriented, but still a lovely place to hang out. It was just outside the center of town, and featured a castle, a zoo, a few sculptures and water features, and was punctuated at the end by a triumphal arch. The rain would keep us from fully enjoying the park, and we left pretty quickly to head home and prepare for the evenings festivities.

We were still much too full from our buffet excursion to have dinner, so he got all dressed up and headed out to our concert at the Palau de la musica. I had learned a little about this building while designing for the concert hall project third year. Now, seeing it in person was even more impressive. A new addition formed a gallery and gathering space on the one side, covered in glass and brickwork in the form of a tree. The real attraction was the front façade of the hall, and the inside. Done in Catalan style with intricate mosaic tile-work, there was also the addition of glass tiles. Its very hard to describe the space, so I’ll have to do it though a few of the pictures I wasn’t supposed to be taking.

The concert itself was also very nice. Three composers were represented and it took nearly two hours to perform all three pieces with an intermission. At a few points, I was so relaxed I found myself being lulled to sleep, only to be woken again when the quartet mustered out a forte. I neglected to mention that rather than an orchestra; it was a quartet we went to see. Susie and I agreed that the cello was our favorite of the four stringed instruments on stage. Before I knew it, it was time to go, and we took the subway home before getting in some sleep for what would be another exciting day.

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Retrospective 3/3: The Night Train to Barcelona

March 20, 2009

When I woke up I could have sworn I’d died and gone to purgatory. In reality it was ten hours later and I was still trapped in the train car. I thought the ride was bad earlier, what with the scalding hot temperatures, no air circulation, and awkward bunkmates. Now the car was pitch black, except for a thin strip of light coming from the corridor. We were in a tunnel and when we exited another thin strip of light splintered the darkness on the other end of the cabin.

Using this as an opportunity to see something other than sheer black, I broke our my little sketchbook and began to make notes.

‘Where’s my passport?’
‘I wonder how Susie is?’
‘Hot. Like being put in a meat smokehouse.’
‘Is this Barcelona? No, only Girona. Balls!’

These are a few of the notes I wrote down, along with a sketch of the cabin, and notes about two dreams I had. One where I was reunited with my family, and one where the man on the bottom bunk went on a murderous rampage that woke me up in a cold sweat. At one point I broke out my phone and sent my third text message ever, and by far the most expensive.

‘Are you awake? Save me!’

I punched in the letters in desperation for freedom from my cell and for other human contact. The Russian man across from me had not moved in a good twelve hours, and I was fairly certain he was dead. When I walked into the corridor earlier not a soul was to be seen, though a beautiful view of the hillsides of France and sea was a pleasant surprise. A few moments later a little knock came at my door. It was Susie! We went and ate a small breakfast (a cocoa and donut for me, a coffee for her) for two hours in the dining car. Anything to be out of my cell!

Susie said she was have a nice time. I’d like to say I’m exaggerating for comedic effect about my experience, but that’s the best part, its not exaggeration. It was something unique, and very amusing in retrospect. I enjoy humorous rants. Anyway, we enjoyed a nice long respite in the dining car before going to our respective cells and packing up our things. At half past eleven we had arrived in Barcelona, two hours late.

Susie’s roommate, a Spaniard, said she could get us a discount at the least for the inconvenience of being late. All we had to do was complain to the ticket agent. I’m never a fan of complaining to service agents, since I used to work in the service industry as a cashier. I can tell you I got my fair share of stupid complaints, so now I always feel a little bad for yelling at someone who’s just doing there job. That aside, Susie, the Spaniard, two Japanese girls, and myself all went to the ticket agent and go 20% off the ticket price. It worked out to close to eighteen euros off the total price!

Now we had to figure out how to get to the hostel from this station, which wasn’t the central station. I used very broken and rusty Spanish to ask a café cashier where the nearest metro was, and with a little luck and lots of hand gestures, we found the station and rode it all the way to near our hostel. Finding the actual hostel was a little more difficult, since the directions got more ambiguous. ‘Next to a Caixa Bank and across from a Consum grocery store,’ they said matter-of-factly. That situation should be pretty unique we thought, Instead, there were banks and supermarkets everywhere, and it took a frustratingly long time to find Sant Jordi Sagrada Familia, our hostel.

Once we finally did we were relieved. Atlast! We rode the elevator up, as instructed by the little old lady receptionist. Wrong floor. We rode it back down, asked again, then rode it up to a different floor. It was getting very obnoxious lugging this huge bag around, but we finally found the reception. A very helpful woman gave us a map that outlined the major things to do in Barcelona before we checked in to our room.

The hostel had a unique set-up. Traditional hostels have huge rooms of 10,12,14+ people and a common room downstairs. This was the set-up of our hostel in Brussels. Here, we had our own apartment. We shared it with something like six other people, but everyone had a two or three person room to themselves, along with a living room, a kitchen, and a laundry balcony (that included free washing!). I neglected to take any pictures sadly, but we really didn’t spend any time in the hostel, except to sleep and eat breakfast or the occasional dinner.

Outside, a balcony opened onto the little triangular park below. Our roommates included a British student on ‘permanent holiday,’ an Asian foreign exchange student, two Frenchies, and later a guy from Colorado. We didn’t interact with them too much because, like I said, we didn’t spend many waking hours at the hostel. We went downstairs with our map to try and figure out where to go for the rest of the afternoon. Sidenote: The hostel had a pet Chinchilla I think. Either that, or one of the tenants had the cutest little fuzzyball running around the main common room.

Its been a few days, so I’m looking at my pictures right now to try and remember exactly what happened from here. I believe we took the metro to the city center. Susie really wanted to explore the Gothic Quarter. I wanted to pick up our concert tickets for the following evening at the palau della musica. Since they were near each other, we decided that’s how we’d spend the rest of our first day. The rest of our friends weren’t going to arrive until the next day anyway.

We picked up our tickets at the concert hall, which I’ll describe to you a bit later. We walked past a building that was only the façade, it looked like some sort of extreme renovation. Then it was off to the Gothic Quarter, which is akin to the oldest parts of Rome. Small streets, stone roads, and old buildings characterized what was once a Roman colony town. We walked into a few exhibits around here that were free, one about art and one that had lots of things written in Catalan Calligraphy. I found the little squares and pathways much more interesting, especially if you juxtapose them with the big of new Barcelona and the modern metro we rode to get to this part of the city.

We decided to skip the Cathedral in the old city because it was six euros to get in. Instead we saw a few more courtyards, including one that housed an ancient Roman city wall. Then we grabbed another Kebab at the delicious and relatively inexpensive Pita Inn. I just talked with Joe and Caryn, who also went to Barcelona, and they also visited/loved Pita Inn. It was the best/last kebab I had on the trip, and the first soda I had bought in awhile. I missed Fanta. I shoved my pita full of vegetables and sauces after the little man had it bursting with meat. It was the first thing I’d eaten since the donut on the train.

We walked around more, seeing cool markets, the Royal Palace and plaza, some interesting sculptures, and then met up with Las Ramblas. The Rambla (which I believe means stream) is the main street in Barcelona. It can’t be longer than two kilometers, but it’s packed with stores, street performers, restaurants, and streams of people. Ramblas is all about the movement of people, probably where it gets its name. We walked to the end where Ramblas turns into Ramblas del mar, the promenade that leads to a mall, cinema, harbor, and beach.

A very scary she-man prostitute was the only bad experience I had with Ramblas that day. Later in the week we ran into some sketchy people trying to sell us individual cans on beer on the beach and on the Ramblas. Other than that, I can see where the street gets its reputation as the heart of Barcelona.

Perhaps just as interesting are the streets that meet up with Ramblas. They are just as lively, with little shops and markets on them as well. On this day however, we decided to walk down to the beach. The swoopy metal girders of the promenade guided us into the mare magnum (mall and cinema complex). Susie really wanted some leather boots, so we looked around in here for a while. Then we continued down to the waterfront, through a small beach community and past some kids playing ping pong with a soccer ball. The community, whose name escapes me right now, was very low-rise, very rectilinear, but very lively. The beach went right up to the edge of it, sometimes with sand blown over the boardwalk and onto the streets.

The Barcelona beach is gorgeous, and its because of this part of the city, that I am reminded of the beaches of California. Mountains in the background, palm trees in the foreground, surfers and boats riding the waves, all capped by a long boardwalk past harbors, small neighborhoods, and a few high-rise modernist towers. On the one end of the beach, a cable car takes you down from the neighboring mountain (mountjuc) and a Dubai styled tower is rising from the beach. On the other end, two towers mark the Olympic Port, and in the distance you can see some factories and industrial port facilities.

Today, we decided to walk towards the Olympic Port, because our receptionist recommended it.

We took our shoes off and walked past some kiddies playing soccer, and what would be a club we would visit later that week. I climbed to the top of a cargonet sculpture, and after some more putzing around a pretty empty Olympic Port, we headed home. From what I remember, other than Susie getting mad because I ran her into a column accidentally, the rest of the evening we cooked for ourselves and planned other parts of our trip before heading to bed exhausted.

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Restrospective 3/2: Leaving Turin

March 20, 2009

A good night’s sleep under our belt (and a wonderful breakfast buffet), we checked out of the hotel with a tentative plan in mind. Our overnight train to Barcelona didn’t leave until 9 in the evening, so we had nearly twelve hours to kill. We left the bulk of our bags and items under the watch of the hotel staff and headed off in the direction of the funicular to Superga, a cathedral overlooking the city of Turin.

We barely got two blocks before purchasing a bag of chocolates at a local shop. There were about twenty variety pieces in the bag, and there a still a few left that we’re munching on. Very good chocolates, Turin lives up to its reputation (next week they have their annual Chocolate Festival). Then, we headed to the river and a Pantheon looking church across from the center city. By the time we ran into a small outdoor market, it was nearing lunchtime, so we grabbed some break and cheese and had a picnic by the river (the same river, River Po, that runs past Florence).

After a fun little adventure where we broke into a bathroom of a coffee shop to use their facilities, we arrived at the Sassia funicular station. It was closed for repairs! I was a bit saddened, as I rather enjoyed the funicular we had take in Como. A bus did take the same route, so we rode that up to the basilica of Superga, way outside of town. The fog was still present from the other day, and we broke through it on the hairpin turns to the top of the mountain. It was my first experience on a public bus in Italy, and I have to say he handled the turns with more grace than I expected.

We arrived at Superga to what would have been a great view, but was instead obstructed in fog. Not wanting to end up like that episode of Spongebob where we get stuck in a strange place with no buses home, I checked the bus schedule. We had about and hour and a half, with seemingly nothing to do. Literally, this area was a church on a hill and nothing else. After a bit of exploring, we found a tour of the church crypt and courtyards and decided to fork over the Euros to see it, since the church itself was being restored.

It was just Susie, myself, and our middle-aged tour guide down in the crypts of the Savoy family. As it turns out, the famous Savoy family made Turin their home for many years. For a while, the city was the capital of the Sardinian empire, mostly through political wielding and dealing. On top of the tombs of Savoy, we learned about how the church was constructed (by blowing 40 meters of rock off the top of the mountain), why it was constructed (a vow was made to God that if a battle was won, a basilica would be constructed in this spot), and what it’s purpose was (essentially a glorified tomb for the Savoy). We saw the crypts, the cloisters (with two foot tall, three hundred year old bushes), and the hall of papal paintings. It was a very educational trip, and we caught the bus home just as our tour ended.

After the bus dropped us off, we walked back through a different part of town. Here modern and wider streets replaced the arcades and axis common in the center of the city, Eventually, we did end up back in the center, and decided to explore the Turin Duomo. It was here that we found a reproduction of the Last Supper fresco, and the shroud of Turin (what Jesus was wrapped in after he was crucified). It’s from here that I gave our humble tourist map the nickname ‘Shroud of Turin,’ because like the real shroud, it had markings on it to tell what/where/and when events happened.

In the evening we did even more putzing. First we stopped at a small café to get a Bicherin, which is a combination of amaretto, cocoa, chocolate, coffee, and hot milk. It is so far the only coffee drink I enjoy. Then we explored a large park on the river that included a small medieval village (Borgo), a castle, an Olympic Venue, and much more. Finally, we ended up at a Latin American restaurant called El Tambo, before heading to the train station to catch our overnighter to Barcelona.

We got there a few minutes early and watched trains come and go from the station of different sizes and shapes. We saw a train with only two cars, and a bullet train to Milan. I assumed our train would be similar to that one with comfortable seats, outlets, and so on. It should be similar to the train we took from Rome to Florence, after all, this train was seventy euro. Then a dirty little locomotive towing what looked like refrigerator boxes behind it pulled into the station. This was the train we would spend the next twelve (actually fourteen) hours on.

We got on board and found our cabins, separated for men and women. There were rooms you could have book individually in front, and also seat in the back. We chose rooms that had seats that turned into beds, similar to what you see in old movies. Except old movies are in black and white, and this was in full, real, dingy color. Four old olive green seats were squished in a room that was about four feet wide, seven feet long, and seven feet tall, and those dimensions are being generous! I shared the room with three other men, and on average we spoke about two words every hour the entire trip.

With nothing to do (since the only outlet was on the ceiling, and my chargers barely stay in the walls as it is) I broke out the sketchbook and started making notes in it. I wrote down things about the people in my cabin, made up elaborate back-stories for them, and wrote down questions I had about the train. I met up with Susie in the drink car for a bit before heading back to the small, hot, dingy cabin for the night.

Just as I got back, the conductor (a small fiery Spanish woman) came in and converted the seats into beds, and my roommates turned out the lights. Leaving me to sketch in the dark. Within a minute or so, I also decided to sleep, hoping that I could hit the hay for twelve straight hours and avoid the awkwardness that might come from this situation.

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Retrospective 3/1: Turino

March 20, 2009

It’s been a few days before I’ve finally gotten settled to write in my digitournal (digital journal, I like fake compound words) again. I write to you from Barcelona, and something outside my window smell delicious right now! Too bad I’m not hungry, because I had a huge lunch I’ll tell you about in a later entry.

Last I left you, I was heading to Turin, home of the 2006 Winter Olympics. We got there relatively on time, about eleven in the morning. It was worth it to leave Como at that godforsaken hour, just to get a little more time in Turin. We checked in to our hotel, since we couldn’t find any hostels in the area, and immediately went out exploring with our trusty map the receptionist gave us.

Sadly the weather was a little damp, light showers and fog the entire day. We didn’t mind too much and decided that today would be the museum day in Turin, which has quite the collection of museums. First thing was first, food! So far, we’d only eaten a chocolate cornetto all day, so it was time for some lunch. The first place we saw was a Chinese restaurant with a very inexpensive tourist menu. Sold! While it took awhile for our food to arrive, the dumplings and curry were delicious and filling. With our feet rested and our stomachs full we ventured off to the first museum, the Egyptian museum.

It might seem random that Turin has the second largest Egyptian museum after Cairo, and it is. I could see no real explanation for it. Some donor decided to give a massive collection of artifacts to a once small museum, and the result today is very impressive. Mummies, pottery, tomb reconstructions, and statues were some of the highlights of the 20,000+ piece collection. I learned some new and interesting facts like: Egypt began over 60,000 years ago, sarcophagi were once made of wood, and the desertification of the region made the Egyptian empire a necessity. We spent about two hours here before heading off to the next museum, the Cinema museum.

It might seem random that Turin has the largest cinema museum in Italy, but it isn’t. Rather, Turin is the cinema capital of Italy (sort of like the Hollywood/Bollywood). There is an annual film festival, and a permanent exhibition at this museum, inside the Mole (once commission to be a Synagogue, now the museum/observation tower for the city). The cinema museum was probably the most interesting place I’d been to in recent memory. It was like Disneyworld meet museum meet futuristic design. In a past meets present and future atmosphere, the museum showcased the origins of motion pictures and the modern process of film.

Everything from shadow puppets, to projection screen, to stage props was on display. We stayed there until the place closed at 8 p.m. I was so impressed by the building and design of the museum that I bought (Susie paid for half as part of an anniversary gift) some architectural drawings of it. I was kind of sad when they kicked us out, even though we spent the last hour in Wall*E style chairs watching old movies under the dome (the most interesting part I thought, was that the dome was this huge open space that an elevator went straight through to an observation tower every ten minutes or so, and then every half hour they would dim the lights and project images on the inner dome).

On the way I also forgot to mention be purchased some delicious hot chocolate. Chocolate is another thing Turin is famous for. Think the Switzerland of Italy. It was the most delicious hot chocolate I’d ever had. Then for dinner, we had Kebab again; even more delicious and satisfying than the one we ate on our porch in Como, or in the shop in Venice. Already late in the evening, we decided to head home and get some sleep for the long day ahead of us. It was a good call in retrospect.

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Retrospective 2/28: Lago di Como

March 20, 2009

Where did I leave off? Yesterday’s events at Lake Como reminded me of spending time with my family in the finger lakes of New York, or with my friends at Lake Winnipesauke. Como is has a small town feeling, even though it has a population of 80,000. Its origins date all the way back to Roman times, and that old town still exists. In the morning we walked around this historical district, seeing the main piazzas, churches, and monuments. We started the day with five people, but quickly lost two in town. Unable to locate them without the aid of a cell phone, the three of us went on a walk down the shoreline of the lake. The promenade ended at Villa Olmo, with a decent view across this end of the lake looking at the town.

I say decent view because all day we were plagued by fog and/or smog, which shrouded the mountains from our view. Despite that, the temperature hovered around sixty degrees all day. After our promenade walk, we stopped at a ffornaio (a bakery of sorts) and pigged out on delicious prosciutto pizza and baked goods for lunch. Then we met up with the rest of our group to ride the funicular to the top of the neighboring hill and the town of Brunate. The slope this train climbed was intense, so people of Pittsburgh can’t brag about their incline trains!

The view from Brunate was again decent, and would have been more spectacular if the fog had risen. We could just make out distant mountains and part of the lake as it turned a corner away from Como. The lake, you have to understand, is enormous. While not very wide, it is preposterously long, and the percentage we saw was so small that I have to go back there for atleast a week in the future.

Brunate was another quaint little town, this time with a population that was probably no more than 1,000 people. Akin to a hill-town in Switzerland, houses were built on and into hillsides. Everything was vertical and everyone that lived there must have been in great shape from walking these hills. We only spend a little time here, since there wasn’t much to do, before heading down the funicular back to Como.

By this time it was nearly five, and I wanted to get out onto the Lake somehow. I suggested renting a small boat, like a kayak or a paddleboat. After some research we found a ferry that serviced all the towns on this end of the lake. We chose to go to the farthest town it serviced, Torno, a half hour ride away. If we had planned better, or stayed at extra day, that boat also went to a town on the opposite end of the lake, a three-hour ride away (just to give you perspective on how big the lake is).

By this time, the fog/smog had nearly lifted and the view down the lake was finally all I thought they would be. Small settlements perched on hillsides; gorgeous villas along the waterfront, and snow-capped peaks in the distance all began to present themselves to us. By the time we go to Torno, the sun was setting over the mountain peaks behind us, with golden light cascading over the water. Right around the bend from us the lake got wider and deeper (apparently some 400 meters deep!), and you could see pretty far out in the crystal clear water.

Torno was another small town like Brunate, and perhaps the most fun we had there was at a local playground. It seems everywhere we go there is a playground that we feel compelled to climb all over, first in Toronto, then in Venice, and now here.

We stopped at a local grocery store on the way back to the ferry and I asked if they had any paninis. The man laughed before I could even get the sentence out, and turned to a woman whom he had been talking fluent Italian to moment earlier. ‘This Englishman needs help,’ he said in Italian. The woman chuckled and asked in a British accent if I would be alright. I said I try to manage and we all had a laugh. For some reason I think the man called me an orange, though I don’t know why. I asked my question and went on my way back to the ferry panini-less.

In the evening we stopped for a kebap, which I may have described to you earlier as a giant conglomerate of meat on a stick. They carve the meat off with an electric saw and turn it into a sort of gyro-type sandwich. Delicious and cheap! We ate our kebap’s and drank a beer on our terrace before turning in early.

Today, we got up at six to head to Turin. First we had to catch our train in Como, which wasn’t direct to Milan Central, but did go to Milan Garibaldi. If we wanted to go the Central Station we had to change in a town called Monza that smelt of old fish. Instead, we decided to ride it into Milan, and take the metro to the correct station. Everything went off without a hitch, and I’m currently writing to you from a train to Turin! Today we have plans to visit all the indoor sights, because its not the best of days to be outside, and because all museums are closed on Monday’s in Turin. Keep you posted tonight!

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Retrospective 2/27: End of Scheduled Activity

March 20, 2009

Our time in Venice has come to an end. As I write this, I am on my way via a Eurostar train to Milan. This morning we slept in a little, half past seven, before eating our traditional breakfasts and heading out to a lecture with Romolo. This time it was another low-income housing project by a firm he had once worked for. Again it was a very interesting project, though a little more run down than the last low-income housing project we had seen. By ten Romolo had let us go, and we were free on spring break! I was a little regretful that our time together had come to an end, as I quite enjoyed his insights on buildings, architecture, and theory. For the next week it looks like I’ll have to make my own insights!

Before everyone parted ways he gave us details on the Capri trip, saying everything will be included except food and a cheap train home. Sounds like a good deal to me, so I signed up right then and there to spend an entire week in Capri after spring break. Then a group of us decided to explore the city for a few more hours before we all headed our separate ways. Susie, Phil (my roommate for the trip and bed-sharing buddy the last two days because there were only three beds in a room for four), Catherine (my guidebook loving friend), Nick, Alyssa, Steph, and Ernest all headed out under my direction (since I was the only one with a good map, thanks mom and dad!).

Venice is easier to figure out after a few days there. What once looked like an unstructured mess began to present itself to me. I could discern main routes with alleys off the beaten path. Of course, the map helped, but it turns out there is a main road that circles around the Grand Canal, its just not as straight or obvious as roads elsewhere. We went down to San Marco after taking a 50-cent gondola ride across the Grand Canal, then across the canal again to the island of San Giorgio. Essentially the only thing here was a church with a tower. It cost three euro to go up the tower (by elevator for once) and get a spectacular view of the city. The day was clear and crisp and we were able to see the main island as well as the surround islands of Guidecca, Murano, and others.

Then we headed back down and after some putzing parted ways to head off on our trip. Our friends Adam, Ashley, and Laura were waiting at the train station to catch the 12:50 train to Milan, and we attempted to make it in time. With a lot of power walking and lunch on the go we arrive, 5 minutes after the train had already departed. Of course, a train ran every hour, and our ticket was good for any of them, or so we assumed. As it turns out, the tickets we bought were only good for a train at three. The train our friends had taken was not a valid train, and we found out from them later that they were kicked off at a random stop in a Podunk town.

We decided it was worth it fork over the extra cash and supplement our ticket with a ticket for the Eurostar and will arrive in Milan at four-thirty. Our friends could have also bought a supplement ticket for a little bit more, but instead decided to wait for the local train. As a result, they might not get to see any of Milan, while we should be able to do a whirlwind tour before heading to Como. In the end, I think it will be worth the extra cash to see (if only briefly) another European city.

Currently our train is stopped in Verona and I’m out of things to write about. I’ll keep y’all up to date about the rest of today’s adventures when I arrive in Como and detox with a pizza and some wine. Ciao!

2.27.09 (Part II)

Last I left you, we decided to fork over the extra cash just so we could make it to Milan for a few hours. I have to say that even though we were there for less than four hours, the extra money was worth it. Susie and I had a unique, if not stressful, experience.

It all started when we first arrived in Milan. The train station is gorgeous, a grandiose combination of Neo-Classical and modern architecture. A huge iron and glass canopy stretched overtop the train platforms as we hurried off to our destination. We were told there were no lockers in this train station, only a bag-check area. We tried unsuccessfully to find it before I got frustrated and decided we should just go and carry all our luggage with us through the entire city.

The overall goal, and perhaps the only thing we thought was worth seeing in Milan, was the Duomo. I was very excited to go inside, see the outside, and get to go on top of the famous church (which is a misnomer since it has no dome). Susie and I shuffled through the hustle and bustle of Milan at rush hour. A homeless man swindled me out of twenty cents at the ticket counter of the subway, and an old woman nearly knocked me over as she walked briskly past to her destination.

A fifteen minute subway ride and we were there, right in the middle of the town square, with the Duomo standing impressively in front of us. We walked up to the entrance, assuming there would be a place to leave our bags, perhaps with a little old man behind a ticket counter. No such luck. Instead we encountered several Carabinieri (police) and a few military types at the entrance. I tried to use my Italian, but I was tired and stressed out. For a moment we had one of them convinced that all he had to do was check our bags and then we could go inside. Then, a man who looked like a church curator sauntered over. With his sleek suit and gold Duomo badge on he took one look at us, all bedraggled and carrying bags on our front, back, and sides, and said ‘You can not enter with this. It is impossible!’

Susie and I, feeling a little disappointed, decided to go in one at a time. I went in first, while Susie guarded all our bags out front. My first run inside was quick, because I had no clue when this church closed and wanted to give Susie the opportunity to see it. I snapped a few quick pictures and then headed out. On the way I asked another curator-type if the roof was open. He said it had closed a little while earlier, another opportunity missed!

While Susie was inside I had the pleasure of experiencing children’s Carnivale in the piazza the addressed the Duomo. Children in costume were everywhere. One little Asian girl came up to me and squirted my jacket with pink silly string. We both laughed, as did he mom, before the little Asian girl ran away. Streamers and confetti were caught in the wheels of my luggage, and it looked like I was making my own parade float. As I sat there sketching the arch and gallery of Victor Emmanuel on the piazza, a few boys came up the side of the church dressed in Ninja Turtle outfits. They started climbing on the church and beating it with little plastic weapons before running off chasing some pigeons around the square. One little boy remained, and it looked as if the Carabinieri were about to kick him off the side of the Duomo, as they had me when I was just leaning against it earlier.

Susie came back outside and I went back in, this time bringing my sketchbook and trying to absorb this place. It was quite an impressive feat in architecture. Huge vaults soared over top of me, in-filled with stained glass windows on either side of the double-aisles. Intricate floor and ceiling patterns were my favorite part of the Duomo, and I spent some time trying to sketch them before going back outside. Susie decided she didn’t need anymore time here, and we walked back through the kiddie Carnivale and into the Victor Emmanuel Gallery I mentioned earlier. It was a pretty amazing structure, similar to the train station (neo-classical with a huge glass canopy), except this time filled with expensive stores and shops. Armani, Prada, Gucci, McDonald’s. Ok, all fancy except for the last one, which we had our cheap Euro menu dinners at, before heading off back the train station.

This time we walked back so we could see some of Milan. It seemed like a pretty modern city. We walked past the La Scala Opera House, a few skyscrapers, and other modern buildings that were lacking in the rest of the cities we had visited. We hopped on a train to Como to meet up with our friends and finally go into the hotel around 9.30. The little old man was waiting for us at the front desk and gave us the key to our room in this two star hotel. It was worth every star. Comfortable beds, a hot shower with a towel warmer, and a huge terrace overlooking the mountains (although right next to a bell tower that is now clanking at eight in the morning) are just some of the perks. Today, I can’t wait to walk around this quaint little town and I’ll tell you all about it.

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Retrospective 2/26: Venezia!

March 20, 2009

My goodness! These long days are killing me. Today, I once again got up at 7 a.m., and its half past ten and I just got up from an unintentional nap!

Last night we walked around Venice a bit, I had alluded to earlier. Venice does not allow cars on the island, so at night it is a very quite place. Add on top of that the slim number of actual local residents, and the place is practically a ghost town in the evening. Things begin to close at eight, and by the time we went for our walk at ten, the streets were desolate. To say it was odd to be in a city with less nightlife than Marlborough, CT is an understatement!

Romolo is famous among past semesters to try and lose students in Venice. This is for a few reasons. The first is Venice has very narrow streets that often abruptly end, aren’t clearly marked, go underneath buildings, or lead to the even more complex (but less pedestrian friendly) canal system. The second reason is Venice is a pretty large city, smaller than Rome, but much bigger than the more walk-able Florence. As such, the third reason is that Romolo puts on his roadrunner legs to get from place to place. In a sizable and confusing city, this makes it easy to lose all your students. For the most part however, we stuck with him and saw what needed to be seen.

Venice is a very interesting place, and we tried to see as much as we could in the little time we have here. We leave tomorrow mid-afternoon for Milan, which is sad because I quite enjoy this quirky little city. This week has flown by very quickly, probably because we hop from place to place, zipping through monuments with barely any time to cover the real life behind these cities. In Venice, its very interesting to see the real life behind the city is essentially a tourist town. It’s a place that few appear to live in, much unlike Rome, which is a 24-hour city of sorts.

I’ve been spending a good deal of time talking about Venice, but not anything I specifically saw in Venice. The day started (as with the adventure I had around the city the evening prior) with a trip to Piazza San Marco, the ‘only’ piazza in Venice (this is because the Venetians call the rest of their piazza campos, similar to the fact that there is only the Grand Canal, and everything else pales in comparison). The contrast between day and night in this city is astonishing. At night, it is a very cold place to be, physically and psychologically. Many of my friends thought it akin to a Disney theme park. The evening prior we decided to putz around with no real destination or schedule (except my friend Ernest had to use the bathroom by the end of it, so be booked it home). Today however, was a different story, and we raced to Piazza San Marco at Romolo’s lightning speed.

The Piazza is an interesting space, surrounding by buildings all at similar heights that stretch horizontally for practically a kilometer in either direction. The place is still covered in confetti and stages from Carnivale, which ended the day we arrived. As you enter the Piazza, the church of San Marco greets you in an odd fashion. Partially under scaffold, and partially and odd hodgepodge of design, the church emphasizes the contexts under which it was built. Venetians are known as sailors and merchants, and the church was built from goods that were traded for over the course of a few hundred years. As a result, several different types of marbles, columns, and decorations adorn the five-domed façade.

A medieval palace is adjoined to two more palaces from the Napoleonic period that enclose the other three sides of the piazza. A large bell tower on one side, and another smaller tower with moving figurines cast in bronze finish off the space. In the side near San Marco basilica, a large opening is left with a view to the water and a path to the adjoining Piazzale San Marco. Here civic buildings and two columns bearing the symbols of the city (a lion, and a man slaying a dragon) frame the view across the bay. In the distance boats race across a channel, and even further out you can see several churches along different islands around Venice.

Important to note is the upside-down order of things in Venice, perhaps most obvious in the civic buildings that frame the Piazzale. In typical design from this period (1400-1600) the bottom of a building is the most solid, making it a fortress to the outside. Venice, which is strategically placed to be safe from the outside anyway, has the lower floor the most open and the upper floors most solid. It produces quite interesting architecture, and is a theme carrying throughout the city.

After San Marco, we saw a few more monuments in the area before heading to a cheap but satisfying lunch of tortellini (which I’m pretty sure was microwaved). Then I guided us back; somehow, with the aid of the map I got for Christmas. In the afternoon, we saw some low-cost housing projects on the island of Giudeca. Low-cost housing isn’t very interesting in the United States (think the Bronx), but here its low-rise/high-density residential that creates interesting spaces for its residents. Plus, low-cost housing here is actually owned by the residents, so they care for it and improve it over-time, rather than let the area fall into decay.

We took the water taxi back, which was quite a pleasant experience (I sat next to Romolo for part of the time and he talked about a project his students once did to design the water taxi stands). Then, after some putzing in the markets, we ate a delicious kebab, bought a beer from the supermarket, and sat around until about….now….talking about our days in Venice.

More notes about Venice may come at a later date when I look at my pictures to recall the many things I saw in such a short amount of time. Tomorrow ends what an interesting week this has been, and starts a new set of adventures.

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Retrospective 2/25: Scarpa Day, Arrival in Venice

March 20, 2009

Six a.m. Another early start to another long but satisfying day. As a group we had our breakfast of rolls and butter before heading to the bus and departing for Verona. Verona is the place where Romeo and Juliet is set. When we first got into the city, there was a modern sprawl akin to every other city I’d seen in Europe. After passing through miles/kilometers of mountain ranges, rolling hills, and then farm fields and vineyards that looked like something out of a model train set, we drove through a very industrial looking quarter that was giving Verona a bad impression in my mind.

Like I said, this sprawl (the suburbs) is typical in European cities, though its vastly different than the suburbia we see in America. The real heart of every European city (often unlike American cities) is the vibrant downtowns and historic districts. Verona had just that, and I’m sad to say we only spent between two and three hours there. We only saw one monument in real detail, but it was perhaps the only monument worth seeing from an architect’s perspective, the Castel Vecchio.

Castel Vecchio, which only dawned on me when we walked in the place, is a medieval castle renovated by the Italian architect Carlo Scarpa. I’m sure most of you don’t know Scarpa, but the phrase ‘the devil is in the details’ defines his work the best. Scarpa is all about joining materials in unique ways to make very interesting architecture. It was a mind-blowing experience, indescribable through words, pictures, and sketches. Of course, I have now tried all three methods of describing it, all to no avail. We left Scarpa a few hours later, much to my dismay, and after eating a delicious calzone we were off to another Scarpa Project a few hours away.

This time it was the Brion Cemetary, what Romolo described as the other bookend in Scarpa’s career (Catel Vecchio marking the beginning, Brion marking the end). Again, another amazing project, this time a fusion of landscape and architecture akin to the Japanese style. Once again, I barely had enough time to document the place in terms of sketching and photographs. My sketches don’t do it justice, as Scarpa uses clean lines, and my method of sketching is anything but clean (one because I’m a lefty and everything smudges, and two because I have a waterproof sketchbook and only brought a set of pens so everything will smudge no matter what unless I keep my hand awkwardly off the page while drawing).

I took a break while writing this, so I forget exactly where I left off. Basically, I enjoyed my experience with Scarpa yesterday and on the bus all the way to Venice. It took all day since we didn’t arrive until 7 p.m. We got to the hotel, a very nice place called Hotel Geremia, in the northern part of the city, and then went to a pizzeria with Romolo on ‘Penn State’s tab.’ I got a feta cheese pizza and a beer, which wasn’t bad and very filling after such a long day. We spent the rest of the evening walking around Venice, which I will talk more about in my next entry. Right now (which is actually my second day in Venice, so I have some catching up to do blog-wise), I’m going out for Kebab. Buona Sera!