Summing up the first week back

3.17.09
Alan Ceen’s class was particularly unexciting today. The lecture classes always are. Afterwards he took me and my group from Capri aside to say he enjoyed our part of the project, just not the contributions of our Italian counterparts.

The rest of the day was spent in studio, despite the nice weather outside. Our professor said my building had potential, which is good since I hadn’t done any work on it in three weeks. As he was going around to each of the other student I was busy trying to throw something together. I’m glad now I have some direction for next time; though I’d much rather spend the days outside than inside working.

The evening was spent at two bars in celebration of St. Patrick’s Day.

3.18.09

A day in which I spent no money, or so says my expense sheet. In the morning we had a Romolo lecture where we learned about Renaissance Roman architecture. We looked at two buildings that combined Renaissance and Baroque influences. An uneventful Italian class capped off the afternoon.

3.19.09

A cartography walk in the morning with Alan Ceen dragged on forever today. The walk, the Via Recta (which we had to do a route map for), passes right by where we live. The facts were new, but the scenery was not. A delicious lunch and studio followed before the evening’s festivities. Today was Phil’s birthday, yes another birthday! He got the cake and dinner-out treatment that has become commonplace for birthdays while we are here. Tonight we went to a restaurant called mimi and coco’s, just down the street. I got a mojito and some pumpkin soup, two things that don’t really go together but were good nonetheless.

3.20.09

I took zero pictures today, which makes it difficult to remember exactly what happened a week or so later. As I recall I sat in the common room and worked, and worked, and worked! Then, just as the sun was setting I decided that was enough working and bought a bottle of wine. The rest of the night we all sat around and drank our bottles of wine. Then, with some prodding, I convinced everyone to go out to a bar in Campo for another drink and more hang out time on this beautiful evening. After a nice time here we walked home and I had a pleasant sleep.

3.21.09

Today was another day that started out work, work, work. By mid-afternoon I was sick of all of that and decided to go out exploring. A few of us decided to venture down to S. John in Lateran, one of the seven main pilgrimage churches in Rome. I had already been there once at the beginning of the semester. I’ve decided however, that things here need to be experienced as many times as possible to really appreciate them.

We started by exploring the church on top of the Capitaline, and I felt like Rocky climbing all those stairs to get up to it. Then we went to Santa Croce, another pilgrimage church filled with old relics (like a severed finger and thorns from Jesus’ crown). We ended at the Lateran, which wasn’t quite so impressive the second time around. The first time we went was the third day we were here, and it was one of the first churches we saw. Now, after seeing so many pieces of architecture, Saint John’s (while still impressive) has lost a little bit of luster.

We ended by trying to get into the mysterious San Stefano Rotondo again, only to be foiled by its odd open hours. A trip to Toudi for food capped the end of a productive sightseeing day.

3.22.09

Again the day started productively. Then, again, I decided that was enough of that and headed off to Castel San Angelo. Located near the Vatican, we always walk past the Castle, but never go inside. Today I sucked it up and paid the eight euro.

Inside (and outside), the Castle is a hodgepodge of styles and eras dating back all the way to the year 100 where it was used as the mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian. Later on it was a legitimate castle, and then a stronghold for the Popes during times of war. Today it is a museum that commemorates such a rich history.

Though it was a bit difficult to navigate, we found the Castle to be quite interesting. Art exhibits, an arms museum, medieval frescoes, and tremendous views of the city greeted us on our visit.

The afternoon was more work until I once again got frustrated and decided to walk to the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps in the evening. Nothing is as relaxing as sitting in front of a giant fountain. If only the little men weren’t trying to sell me souvenirs it would have been perfect!

3.23.09

Today combined work with walking around the city, so I couldn’t gripe about it! It was time to outline Alan Ceen’s personal route map. This is an exercise where we create our own route walk through the city, connecting two points and avoiding major traffic roads.

My map attempts to connect Piazza del Popolo with Tiber Island, without using the three main trivium roads that take you there. Essentially this means I get to find my way through the old fabric of the Campo Marzio district. This area, which Piazza Navona is a part of, was a field in ancient times, and the densest part of the city. This is because after the fall of Rome, it was the area with the most easily accessible water. Monuments and landmarkers are abound in this district, though I failed to remember this when I set up my walk.

As I was walking the line drawn on my piece of paper it occurred to me the many important things that lay along my path. The Jewish Ghetto, the fountain of the turtles, several main churches and piazzas, and the Pantheon. I made an effort to stop in/at every bit that looked important, from the hospital at the start of my route, to a church clad in fresh and sweet smelling roses, to the Syria Church.

After an Italian class where we played a board game instead of learn anything, it was time for yet another birthday celebration, Mindy’s birthday. This was my first experience with a place called Buffetto’s (meaning the mustache in Italian). Apparently home to the best pizza in Rome, the restaurant is located about a block from home. There is a line nearly everyday, and a little Italian man greets you at the door, shuffling you quickly inside.

I have to say that it is probably the best, or one of the best, pizzas I’ve had in Rome. I had their specialty pizza, which came served with an egg over top. This might seem odd for us American types, but the result was delicious. Plus, the crust was so deliciously thin that you had to use a knife and fork to eat it. I’m drooling a bit just thinking about it now!